Blown joints, lance marks and pitted slabs are avoidable. Here is what to do differently.
Most paving damage we see is caused by too much pressure held too close, plus a failure to re-sand afterwards.
Keep the lance moving, work at a consistent distance, use a rotary surface cleaner where possible and always replace jointing sand before sealing.
A single autumn application of biocide saves a full clean in spring. Timing and dilution explained.
Moss establishes in autumn when surfaces stay damp. Treating in September or October kills spores before they take hold.
Apply diluted biocide on a dry day, leave it in place and do not rinse — the residual film is what does the work over winter.
A plain-English comparison of the three finishes, with the surfaces each one suits best.
Matt sealers protect without changing appearance — the safe default for concrete block paving.
Satin adds a slight sheen and a little colour depth. Wet look strongly enhances colour and suits riven sandstone and slate, but shows wear sooner in high traffic areas.
Why detergent fails on old oil, and how a poultice gel pulls the stain back out of the slab.
Detergent lifts oil off the surface but leaves everything that has soaked in. Concrete is porous, so an old drip mark can be several millimetres deep.
A poultice gel is the answer: it sits on the stain, softens the oil and draws it upward as the gel dries. Deep stains often need two applications.
Black spot will not pressure wash off. Here is the method our trade customers use on sandstone and limestone, step by step.
Black spot is a lichen, not dirt. It roots into the top few millimetres of the stone, which is why a pressure washer only removes the surface colour and leaves a grey shadow — or worse, scars the slab.
The reliable approach is chemical. Clean the surface first so the treatment can reach the lichen, apply a dedicated black spot remover at the stated rate, then leave it. Results appear over two to six weeks as the dead lichen weathers away.
Always test a small area first, protect planting with plastic sheeting, and wear the PPE listed on the safety data sheet.
Sealing too early traps moisture and causes a hazy finish. Here is the timing that actually works in the UK climate.
New block paving needs time to weather so that efflorescence — the white salt bloom pushed out by the curing process — can work its way out. Sealing over it locks it in permanently.
As a rule, wait three to six months on new installations, then clean, re-sand and seal in a dry spell with no rain forecast for at least twelve hours.
